How to Properly Saw Branches with a Garden Saw Without Damaging the Tree

Pruning branches with a saw requires a slightly different technique than using pruning shears or loppers. The main mistake is to simply start sawing a branch quickly without considering its weight, position, and the location of the future cut.

With the wrong technique, you can damage the bark, create a long tear, split the branch, or make the cut too deep. As a result, the tree may take longer to recover.

That is why it is important to know not only which garden saw is suitable for a particular branch, but also how to saw tree branches properly in order to control the cut and preserve healthy wood around the cutting area.

For different conditions, Kenzan Kiev offers, among others, ARS UV-32E, the compact ARS IK-10-R, and the combined telescopic tool ARS 180ZTR-2.0-3D + saw.

Why Is It Important to Make the Cut Properly with a Garden Saw?

When a branch is cut without sufficient control, its own weight can cause it to break before the sawing is complete.

This is especially dangerous when removing large and heavy branches. The bark may first tear below the cut, then the branch begins to pull downward, causing the damage to spread farther than intended.

A good result is therefore not simply about removing the branch quickly. The cut should be controlled and made in the correct location.

At the same time, a branch should not be cut flush against the trunk. At the base of a branch there is a natural area where it connects to the trunk, and proper pruning aims to preserve this zone.

Where Should the Cut Be Made?

For most branches, the main reference point is where the branch joins the trunk or a larger branch.

You should not make the cut:

too far from the branch base — this leaves a long stub;

too close to the trunk — this can damage the protective area at the branch base;

at an arbitrary angle — this makes the cut harder to control and can increase the size of the wound.

Before starting, carefully examine the branch base. You can usually see a characteristic swelling or bark ridge. The position of this area helps determine where the proper cut should be made.

How to Saw Thin and Medium-Sized Branches

If the branch is relatively small and can be kept under control during sawing, the technique is fairly simple.

Place the saw at the chosen cutting point and begin with smooth strokes.

There is no need to put your entire body weight behind the saw. Japanese garden saws are designed to work efficiently with the teeth cutting during the pull stroke.

Your main task is to keep the blade stable and avoid suddenly changing the direction of the cut.

If the saw starts moving sideways, do not try to correct it with a strong push. It is better to stop, slightly adjust the position of the tool, and continue with controlled strokes.

How to Saw a Thick Branch: The Three-Step Cut

When working with a genuinely thick branch, it is better not to try to cut all the way through it from one side in a single operation.

This is where a three-step cut can help.

First Cut — From Below

Start with a shallow cut on the underside of the branch.

Its purpose is to prevent the bark from tearing away in a long strip during the following cut.

The first cut should not go all the way through the branch.

Second Cut — From Above

Then move slightly farther from the first cut and begin sawing from above.

As the upper cut approaches the lower cut, the branch will separate in a more controlled way, reducing the risk of a large bark tear.

The key is to keep the saw in the correct position and take the weight of the branch into account in advance.

Third Cut — The Final Cut

After the main heavy section of the branch has been removed, a short section remains.

You can now make the final cut near the branch base without placing excessive stress on the tree.

This method is especially useful when removing large tree branches.

Why Shouldn't You Immediately Saw a Large Branch from Above?

If you simply start sawing a heavy branch from above, there comes a point when the wood can no longer support its own weight.

The branch begins to break downward.

At that moment, the bark can tear far below the main cut.

Instead of a clean cut, you can end up with a large damaged surface that will take the tree longer to heal.

That is why, with large branches, it is important to control the direction in which the wood will break before making the final cut.

How to Saw Tree Branches with a Japanese Saw

Japanese saws have a feature that requires some adjustment: the main cutting stroke is performed toward you.

This is especially important for anyone who has previously used a conventional push-stroke saw.

Do not try to force the blade through the wood.

The correct technique is simple:

place the saw at the desired cutting point;

let the teeth work during the pull stroke;

use smooth movements;

do not rock the tool from side to side;

keep the pressure moderate.

This approach makes it easier to control the cutting line and reduces the likelihood of the blade unexpectedly slipping.

ARS UV-32E — For Large Branches

ARS UV-32E is a professional Japanese saw with a long curved blade.

This design is particularly suitable when working with large branches and when a long working stroke is needed.

The curved blade helps maintain the direction of the cut, while its increased length allows you to work with larger pieces of wood.

When using a saw of this type, it is especially important not to rush and to consider in advance where the cut section of the branch will fall.

ARS IK-10-R — For Smaller Branches and Tight Spaces

ARS IK-10-R is a compact folding saw designed for light garden work, bonsai, and situations where space is limited.

It is convenient for working inside a dense tree crown, where a long blade can interfere with free movement.

A compact saw is particularly useful for precise work on smaller branches and shrubs.

In this case, the main advantage is not maximum cutting productivity, but control over every movement.

ARS 180ZTR-2.0-3D — For Branches at Height

ARS 180ZTR-2.0-3D + saw is a combined telescopic tool with a pruner and saw.

Its design is intended for working from the ground with high and hard-to-reach branches. The adjustable handle has a length of 1.3 to 2.0 m, and the tool is designed for maintaining tall trees and hard-to-reach areas of the crown. The product page also states that the pruner is designed for branches up to 20 mm. (kenzan-kiev.com)

Here it is especially important to make sure that the branch is not positioned at a dangerous angle and that the cut section will not fall onto a person or other plants.

When working at height, controlling the position of the branch is just as important as the sawing technique itself.

How to Avoid Damaging the Bark During Sawing

The main rule is not to allow the weight of the branch to finish the cut uncontrolled.

Using the correct technique gives you much better control over the bark.

This is particularly important during the final millimeters of the cut. At this point, the branch may suddenly change position.

When working with a heavy branch, it is useful to support it or plan in advance where it will move after separation.

If the branch is high above the ground, never stand directly underneath it.

How Can You Tell Whether the Cutting Point Is Correct?

Before sawing, ask yourself three questions:

Where is the branch base?

Where will the cut section fall or move?

Can the cut be made without damaging neighboring branches?

Once these questions are clear, you can position the saw.

Do not start working immediately after a quick glance at the branch. A few seconds spent assessing its position can save much more time than trying to correct an improper cut later.

What Should You Do After the Cut?

After removing the branch, carefully inspect the cut surface.

If the cut is clean and the surrounding bark has not been torn, additional treatment is generally not required.

If there are rough pieces of wood, they can be carefully removed with a sharp cutting tool without unnecessarily enlarging the wound.

There is no need to enlarge the cut diameter or remove an additional layer of healthy wood without a clear reason.

The main goal is to remove the branch with the minimum necessary damage.

Common Mistakes When Pruning Branches with a Saw

Excessive Pressure

Strong pressure does not replace correct technique. It can reduce control and make the saw work less effectively.

Cutting a Thick Branch from One Side

With large branches, this approach increases the risk of splitting and bark damage.

Cutting Too Close to the Trunk

Trying to remove absolutely every protruding part of the branch can damage the base of the branch.

Leaving a Long Stub

If too much of the branch remains, it becomes unnecessary wood that the tree must gradually heal over.

Using a Dull or Dirty Saw

Dirt and resin can interfere with smooth movement. The cutting part should be clean and in good condition.

How to Choose a Garden Saw for Proper Pruning

The right saw depends on branch size and working conditions.

For large tree branches, you can use ARS UV-32E.

For smaller bran